Point Pelee Part 3: The Places
May 20th, 2010
Eastern
Towhee at Rondeau Provincial Park
Day one: Oshawa Second Marsh (was supposed to be Hillman Marsh)
Day two: Point Pelee (the point itself in the morning, Tilden Woods in the afternoon)
Day two, early evening: Hillman Marsh
Day three: Rondeau Provincial Park, morning and afternoon
Day four: Thickson Woods (near Toronto), briefly, en route to home
The decision of whether to take camera or binos, on any given birding outing,
is often a difficult one. The binos are far better for in-the-moment enjoyment
and for spotting, while the camera gives me more tangible memories to enjoy
afterwards, and more to share with friends. This time the decision was
agonizing. I can't do both and do justice to both: one must take priority,
with the other stowed at my side or, ideally, left back at the hotel room.
(They are just too unwieldy to carry them both around my neck.)
I ended up deciding to use binos for the first two days, and camera for the
last two. On the binos days, the camera stayed on the bus or in the hotel
room. What I didn't realize is that none of the other locations we birded
could even hold a candle to Point Pelee. There was no comparison. Not just
because there were far fewer birds and less variety of birds, but because,
especially at Rondeau, most of the birds were breeders, not migrants. Breeders
go about their business, often in the very tops of trees, and aren't
necessarily that conspicuous unless you catch them singing--and again, they
often sing at the tops of trees. Migrants flit around visibly, forage
actively, as they fuel up for the next migration step, sometimes coming down
much lower than they would during breeding time. They aren't "settled in", as
it were. So, in sum: got a few good pictures, but not as many as I was hoping
for.
If I had realized all that, would I have done things differently?
Well...probably not. Point Pelee was a visceral thrill, and if I'd been in
photographer mode, that thrill would have been seriously dampened. I would
have missed a lot of birds, the ones I didn't miss, I probably wouldn't have
seen as well, and I would have been too busy focusing on the work of
photography to have all the "oh my god, that's my very first [x], it's
beautiful!" moments.
All this means, of course, that I must go back. I must go back so I can take
pictures, and I must go back just because. Because Point Pelee was
breathtaking. I've never heard so much birdsong at once, as soon as I got off
the bus. I've never seen anywhere near so many different species in one day.
And all that said, one of the most thrilling moments was not about birds or
not
just about birds: it was when I came out onto the very tip tip of
southern Ontario. Vast expanses of open water all around me, and a thick
morning mist hanging over it. No far shore visible anywhere, not even after
the sunrise burned the mist off. Everywhere I looked the world dropped off.
Just off the point, huge swirling flocks of gulls and terns and cormorants
dove for fish. It was magical. It felt like being at the ocean. The Great
Lakes should be called freshwater seas.
Let me just cut to the chase and give you the full species list. Here are the
birds I personally found during the four-day trip--including en route. Lifers
are starred; birds that were only heard, not seen, are marked with carets.
Warblers
American Redstart
Bay-Breasted Warbler
Black-And-White Warbler
Black-Throated Blue Warbler
Black-Throated Green Warbler
Blackburnian Warbler
Blackpoll Warbler
Canada Warbler
*Cape May Warbler
Chestnut-Sided Warbler
Common Yellowthroat
Magnolia Warbler
Nashville Warbler
^Northern Parula
Orange-Crowned Warbler
^Ovenbird
Palm Warbler
Tennessee Warbler
Wilson's Warbler
Yellow Warbler
Yellow-Rumped Warbler
Others
American Coot
American Crow
American Goldfinch
American Robin
American Wigeon
Baltimore Oriole
Bank Swallow
Barn Swallow
^Belted Kingfisher
*Black-Bellied Plover
Black-Capped Chickadee
Blue Jay
Blue-Gray Gnatcatcher
Blue-Headed Vireo
Blue-Winged Teal
Bonaparte's Gull
Brown-Headed Cowbird
Canada Goose
^Carolina Wren
*Caspian Tern
Cedar Waxwing
Chimney Swift
Chipping Sparrow
Common Grackle
Common Nighthawk
Common Tern
Double-Crested Cormorant
Downy Woodpecker
*Dunlin
Eastern Kingbird
Eastern Towhee
Eastern Wood-Pewee
European Starling
*Forster's Tern
Gadwall
Gray Catbird
Great Blue Heron
^Great Crested Flycatcher
Great Egret
Herring Gull
House Sparrow
*House Wren
Indigo Bunting
Killdeer
Least Flycatcher
Lesser Yellowlegs
*Lincoln's Sparrow
*Little Gull
Mallard
Mourning Dove
Northern Cardinal
^Northern Flicker
Northern Harrier
Northern Rough-Winged Swallow
Northern Shoveler
*Orchard Oriole
Osprey
Purple Martin
Red-Bellied Woodpecker
Red-Eyed Vireo
Red-Headed Woodpecker
Red-Tailed Hawk
Red-Winged Blackbird
Ring-Billed Gull
Rock Pigeon
Rose-Breasted Grosbeak
Ruby-Crowned Kinglet
Ruby-Throated Hummingbird
^Savannah Sparrow
Scarlet Tanager
Short-Billed Dowitcher
Song Sparrow
Swainson's Thrush
^Swamp Sparrow
*Trumpeter Swan
^Tufted Titmouse
Turkey Vulture
Veery
Warbling Vireo
White-Breasted Nuthatch
White-Crowned Sparrow
White-Eyed Vireo
White-Throated Sparrow
Wild Turkey
^Wood Thrush
That's 96 species seen, 10 heard, and 10 lifers. Of those, 70 were
seen/heard at Point Pelee in one day, including all 21 of the warblers.
Point Pelee is a place where migrant birds have just finished their trip
across lake Erie. Assuming they're songbirds, that means not stopping once
across the whole stretch, because songbirds can't swim (except for the rare
oddity like the American Dipper). So when they arrive on the far shore, they
crash--the way we all did at the hotel at 10:45pm--and they stay put for
awhile. That's why Point Pelee rocks.
There is another reason why this whole region is famous with Canadian birders
and Canadian naturalists: it comprises the far-northern tip of the Carolinian
forest region. That means a very different assortment of trees, wildflowers,
insects, reptiles, and last but not least breeding birds than we see up in
places like Ottawa. Having grown up in Virginia, I was particularly amused by
the big to-do about ticks. Far-southern Ontario has ticks. There was a lecture
about it on the bus--what they look like, how to get them off once they've dug
in, how to do tick checks--and the awed reverence with which people treated
the subject made me smile. Just wait'll you meet chiggers, folks. You ain't
seen nothing yet.
There are a number of interesting birds whose breeding range extends into
Point Pelee but not much further north. Birds who are basically linked to the
Carolinian forest. So while we come to Pelee for the migrants, we also come
for those southern breeders that we can't find (or can only find with great
difficulty) back home. Rondeau Provincial Park is one of the top places to see
them. The one disappointment of the trip was how few of them I saw--in
particular, I saw not a single one of the many southern warblers (to wit,
Golden-Winged, Blue-Winged, Brewster's, Prothonotary, Hooded, Worm-Eating,
Prairie, Kentucky, Yellow-Breasted Chat, Louisiana Waterthrush) that I had
been hoping and rather expecting to see, all of whom would have been lifers.
Many of them were around; I was just unlucky. Some in my group had better
luck--some even saw the ultra-rare, endangered
Kirtland's
Warbler that showed up at Point Pelee on Friday--but I never happened to
be in the right sub-group at the right time.
I choose to look on the bright side. If I tick off every possible lifer at
high speed, I will soon get to the point where I have to go on long trips to
the western provinces, or even other countries, to see something new. I have
my whole life to enjoy this hobby. There's no rush.
And there will--I repeat, THERE WILL--be future trips to Point Pelee in May!
And I will be awake and ready at oh five four five in the morning to go see
the birds at Point Pelee in May!
In the remaining parts, I'll talk about some of the interesting species I saw,
and share the rest of my photos.